Paddle up to some of islands best cafes and restaurants this summer.
Story and photos by Rob Casey
The San Juan Islands archipelago have 172 named islands and reefs providing endless opportunities for paddlers. Whether you’re planning a day trip or overnight to a Cascadia Marine Trail site, check out these paddle-up cafes and general stores to grab a bite or beverage plus refill up on water and other essentials.
Blakely General Store, Marina and Restaurant
Located on Blakely Island in the San Juan Islands is south of Orcas Island. This combo of a marina, general store and restaurant is in a perfect spot if you’re paddling south of Orcas Island to Cypress Island or west to Lopez and Shaw Islands.
I know folks who just paddle to the Blakely General Store in summer for the ice cream! The donuts look epic too. The store also has recycling, hot showers, restrooms, laundry, fishing supplies and more.
Blakely Island is not accessible via ferries so you have to paddle there; nor are there campsites. The easiest access point is Obstruction Pass boat ramp on the south end of Orcas Island. From there you have options depending on how the tidal currents are running for going around Obstruction Island. Current can rip over 2 knots in there so get my book “Paddling the Salish Sea” (Mountaineers Books, 2024) for details.
Nearby, visit the beautiful beach at Obstruction Pass State Park which also has a Cascadia Marine Trail campsite. If paddling south of Blakely, watch for ferry traffic. Land on the beach to the left of the fuel dock.
The store and cafe are only open in summer from Memorial Weekend to October 1. Check the store’s hours and menu as well.
Blakely General Store, Marina and Restaurant 8 Marine Drive, Blakely Island, 360-375-6121
Deer Harbor’s Marina Market and Dock Store – Orcas Island
Not far from Blakely Island is Deer Harbor’s Marina Market and Dock store on Orcas Island. This is a great location if you’re paddling at Jones or Yellow Islands, Wasp Passage, crossing to San Juan Island or just poking around southern Orcas Island.
The market has a cafe for breakfast and lunch (known for it’s pizza), showers, boat washing stations, groceries, fishing gear, restrooms and more.
Land at the beach where the dock starts if the tide is low enough. The public County dock is adjacent to the store.
Deer Harbor’s Marina Market and Dock 5164 Deer Harbor Road,
360-376-3037
Hours 9-5pm weekdays, grill closes at 3pm
Weekends 10-2, grill closes at 1:30 pm
The Shaw General Store – Shaw Island
Shaw Island in the middle of the San Juan Islands archipelago and is a regular stop for paddlers traveling from Lopez Island and the Wasp Passage which separates Shaw from Orcas Island.
Ferries regularly land at Shaw coming from Orcas Island across the channel, the mainland or from San Juan Island to the west.
The Shaw General Store which is adjacent to the ferry terminal was built in 1924 and managed by the Fowler family until 1958. A number of different owners ran it until 1976 when the Franciscan Sisters from the islands’ Lady of the Rock Monastery Benedictine monastery started their management of the store for the next 27 years. The nuns were often spotted at the ferry dock over the years.
In 2004 Steve and Terry Mason began their management along with their children updating the store and also making the store an important part of island life. The store is known for its own roasted coffee and delicious pizza.
Paddlers are allowed to tie up to their dock as long as boats are given right of way for space.
There’s a Cascadia Marine Trail campsite nearby at tiny Blind Island in Blind Bay a few minutes from the ferry landing. Paddle around the east side of the island to protected Shaw County Park for another Cascadia Marine Trail campsite.
Shaw General Store 360-468-2288. Open seven days a week, the store’s hours are 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.
Olga Food Co-Op and Cafe, Orcas Island
Olga Store is located on the southeast corner of Orcas Island’s East Sound. It’s a great stopover if you’re circumnavigating the island or exploring Obstruction Pass.
You can paddle right up to the Olga County Park public dock and stroll up to the store. The park has no facilities but the store has restrooms. The store offers groceries, ice cream, a cafe, espresso, restrooms and post office.
The closest local launch is the Obstruction Pass boat ramp on the other side of Obstruction Pass State Park. The boat ramp has restrooms and no other facilities. Watch tidal currents in Obstruction Pass and wind in East Sound.
Founded in the 1860s the waterfront community was known for shipping local strawberries to Seattle markets. The first storekeeper Athony Ohlert named the store after his mother Olga. In 1922, the store was sold to Duncan Bower, Eddie Bauer’s father. Originally on a beach nearby the store, the store was moved to its current location in 1937 where it became the heart of eastern Orcas Island.
The store closed for many years and was sold in 2019. The Friends of the Olga Store Building purchased the store and after a remodel, reopened it as Orcas Food Co-Op Cafe.
Up the road a few minutes is Orcas Island Artworks, a multi-use building with a gallery featuring local artists and Lascaux Cafe which offers French inspired pastries and meals. The 1938 building was the Olga Strawberry Barreling Plant operated by the Orcas Island Berry Growers Association and the National Fruit Canning Company.
Half a mile across the bay you can land at a no bank beach and enjoy a cold beverage and bite at Buck Bay Shellfish Farm known for its seafood market and tasty bistro with covered and outdoor seating. Enjoy their fresh local king salmon, halibut, oysters, clams and pork ribs. Olga is a pleasant half mile walk from Buck Bay.
Orcas Food Co-Op Cafe 138 North Beach Rd #913, 360-376-2009
Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island
Known for their friendly ‘Lopez Wave,’ Lopez Island residents greet every visitor whether you’re walking, driving or paddling. As one of the less developed islands, Lopez has a wide range of paddling opportunities from the tidal rapids at Shark Reef to many protected bays and coves. The island also has a Cascadia Marine Trail campsite at Odlin Park on the northwest side of the island.
The hub of the island, Lopez Village sits just outside of Fishermen’s Bay. Paddlers have several easy options for accessing the village. Local paddler Ryan Good recommends grabbing tacos at “El Taco ‘Bout,” adjacent to Lopez Village Park and its outdoor picnic tables. Or visit the slightly upscale Blue Heron Bistro for locally sourced ingredients or grab oysters on the half shell at the Haven on the waterfront.
There are two public access beaches you can land and walk in. The better of the two is just south of the village in between the waterfront homes on Fisherman Bay Spit Road which is connected to Weeks Point Way. Secure your craft and walk a few minutes into town.
On the spit across from the village spot derelict reef fishing gear. Reef fishing was developed by the Coast Salish people as a method of catching salmon in the tidal laden areas of the islands. Some still practice the method today.
In Fisherman Bay, the Islander Resort and Marina has a restaurant, bar, hotel and marina services. Paddlers can land on their beach to the left or north of the building by the kayak rentals. Aim for a medium to higher for easier beach access.
El Taco ‘Bout It 308 Lopez Road, 360-429-9942
Blue Heron Bistro 211 Lopez Road, 360-375-3794
Haven 9 Old Post Road, 360-468-3272
Islander Resort and Marina 2864 Fisherman Bay Road, 360-468-2233
Roche Harbor, San Juan Island
Tucked inside a protected bay on the northwest corner of San Juan Island lies charming Roche Harbor, or as locals call it ‘Roche’. Since time immemorial, Roche Harbor was a Salish village known as Wh’lehl-kluh. Shell middens from that period are still visible. The British Royal Marines led by officer Richard Roche scouted the area in the 1840-1850s. They settled a bit south in Garrison Bay where a blockhouse was built and still stands today. The Americans had a camp on the south side of the island. In 1859, an American shot a British company pig which led to an international incident called the ‘Pig War.’ The incident ended in 1860 and with the British leaving the island in 1872 with the establishment of the 49th Parallel rule by the Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany. The American troops left the island in 1874.
In the late 19th Century Roche Harbor became the west coast’s largest lime manufacturer as quarries were blasted and lime ovens were constructed. A few of those remnants still stand today.
The Victorian era Hotel Del Haro was built on top of a company bunkhouse and was once visited by President Theodore Roosevelt. In modern times, Roche Harbor is a boating destination with a large marina with full services, onshore restaurants, the Roche Harbor Resort and Hotel, an English garden and shopping.
Grab a donut and ice cream at Beachtree Espresso or a burger and beverage then sit on the waterfront deck at Madrona Bar and Grill. Start your day with tasty breakfast at Lime Kiln Cafe behind the Company Store or find more formal dining at McMillan’s Dining Room on shore. The Company Store is a general store with groceries, fishing supplies and more.
Paddlers can land on the U-shaped dock on the north side of the Company Store below the ramp by the fuel dock. Or land on the south side of the Company Store to the right of the marina office by the ramp.
The waters surrounding Roche Harbor have many paddles in protected water such as visiting the historic English Camp in Garrison Bay and the Cascadia Marine Water Trail campsite on Posey Island. Advanced paddlers can paddle to Stuart Island or circumnavigate the island.
Paddle right up to the Westcott Bay Shellfish Company and enjoy dining options such as the indoor Net Shed featuring their local oysters, mussels, soups and more. Their Tide Tables is a waterfront experience on the beach open May through October. Enjoy grilled and half shell oysters, salads, bakery goods and wines. They ask that you land your paddle craft on the northeast corner of the beach.
Roche Harbor Resort 248 Reuben Memorial Drive, 800-586-3590
Westcott Bay Shellfish Company 360-472-9223